Escentric 04 is very Geza Schoen. If you’re familiar with this perfumer’s work from Escentric Molecule and Anat Fritz to biehl parfumkunstwerke, then you’ll know we mean this as a compliment. Escentric 04 contains Schoen’s signature of turning heavy materials like woods into gauzy, air bound creations with the thoughtful use of modern synthetics like Iso E Super and Ambroxan. Unlike other perfumers who use these materials simply to boost radiance or projection, Schoen uses them as the main building blocks for entire perfumes – and Escentric 04 is evidence, once again, that he is brilliant at it.
For Escentric 04, Schoen has chosen to focus on synthetic sandalwood. Javanol is a powerfully radiant synthetic sandalwood, as is Polysantol, which is sweeter and creamier. Use too much of either and the scent can become loud and vulgar. But here, Schoen has woven a fizzing pink combo of grapefruit, rose, and pink pepper into the sandalwood, resulting in a light, creamy shimmer of woods that never overpowers. Hedione and ambroxan add a fresh, salty “whiteness” that illuminates the woods from within. Nothing overdosed or harsh, just a perfect balance between sparkling fruit, roses, salt, flowers, creamy woods, and the spanking freshness of wet laundry. The ultimate summer “my skin but better” scent for both men and women.